O'Briens Wine Blog

Love them or hate them wine labels can be one of the most influential factors in choosing a wine. Some of the finest wines in the world have very plain labels, offering no clue as to the quality of the wine inside.

If you didn’t know your Pomerols from your Médoc then what conclusions might you draw from these two Le Pins?

The one on the right costs around €9 the one on the left would set you back €1800!

The label on the left from Le Pin (Pomerol) has a simple, classic style that doesn’t need to catch the eye; it is not designed to lure a roaming buyer in a fine wine store. The buyers of this blue chip know well in advance exactly what they are looking for and getting.  The Le Pin on the right however is trying hard to say “I am venerable Bordeaux Château – look at these gates, and the crest!- buy me!”

For lesser known wines and new producers the label design is a big deal, it is that all important first contact with the wine drinker and first impressions do count. Unfortunately there are some very average wines out there that have been dressed up to look the business with fancy embossed labels and engraved bottles but contain, at best, a mediocre wine.

Thankfully though, there are wines made whose labels scream out “try me I am as good as I look!” Labels that openly flirt with you as you browse the shelves and once tasted back up their claims with a wine that engages and delights the nose and palate.

Which brings me to the point of all this….my favourite new wine label: Jaspi Blanc.

Smart, eye catching and simplistically original. Made from Grenache Blanc and Malvasia from the DO of Terra Alta in north east Spain, it is every bit as good as it looks. Jaspi has a superb intensity of cool citrus and apple fruit and a remarkable minerality that underscores the wine but is reluctant to ever leave the palate.

The red equivalent (Jaspi Negre) almost equals the white in its balance of fantastic packaging and stunning wine. Hailing from the Monsant Mountains it’s a deeply coloured, rich red with superb acidity to balance the core of ripe, dark-berried fruit. It bears a striking similarity to the expensive wines of neighbouring Priorat but leaves these wines miles behind in the quality for money stakes.

Impressive labels are not the most reliable guide to choosing wines but sometimes the first impression is an honest one and the wine that follows more than lives up to the billing.

In a huge awards ceremony in New York at the end of January a select group of hopefuls will find out if they have made it from the shortlist to the Grand Prize at The Wine Enthusiast Wine Star Awards.

Amongst those shortlisted are some of O’Briens’ most important exclusive imports.

Gérard at Château L'Hospitalet

Up for European Winery of the Year is Languedoc superstar Gérard Bertrand.

“Both landowner and partner of the best winegrowers in the South of France, Gérard Bertrand manages over 325 hectares of vineyards across varying Languedoc terroirs. He fully understands the movement toward expressive, well-balanced and elegant wines that remain accessible and affordable.” Wine Enthusiast

Gérards best loved wines here are Château Remaury, Pic St. Loup, Fitou Cascastel and his home estate Domaine de Villemajou.

Another major prize is up for grabs with Bodegas Norton shortlisted for New World Winery of the Year - no doubt their flagship Norton Privada and stunning Reserva range  has a lot to do with that.

“Owned since 1989 by the Austrian family that runs Swarovski Crystal, Bodega Norton is one of the grand names in Argentinean wine. Under the management of Michael Halstrick, Norton exports to more than 60 countries” Wine Enthusiast

Alvaro Espinoza

and finally Alvaro Espinoza is in for Winemaker of the Year and with the like of Etnico, Coyam and G and the new Chono range serving as his credentials he stands a pretty good chance of winning.

“As Chile’s most sought-after winemaking consultant, Espinoza’s clients include Emiliana and Pérez Cruz in Chile and Cruz Andina in Argentina. A staunch proponent of organic and biodynamic viticulture, he runs his own wine labels, Antiyal and Kuyen, and is a founding partner in Geo Wines.” Wine Enthusiast

Good luck to all three and we hope we’ll be celebrating the winners on the 30th of January.

As it’s early January it seems fitting to look back at some of the highlights of 2011. From late November through to early January wine critics and journalists worldwide compile detailed year end lists of their favourite wines; top 5s 10s or 100 best wines of the year. What you will find below is a selection of wines exclusive to O’Briens that have done pretty well in the vinous pop-charts.

The Big One: Wine Spectator’s Top 100 - No.4 Campogiovanni Brunello 2006

Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 Best Buys – No.2 Protocolo 2009

…and a little closer to home: Matt Nugent’s Fab Five for 2011 – Irish Daily Maily 

Man O’ War Dreadnought 2009

“By far the most exciting – and elegant – red I tasted all year”

 Delheim Chardonnay Sur Lie 2010

“A real favourite…Great balance.”

 Oh and not forgetting a big number one from the Sunday Business Post’s Tomás Clancy:

Best Multiple Wine Chain 2011: O’Briens Wine.Beer.Spirits

 “O’Briens takes the gong again out of sheer exuberant joy in offering easily the smartest set of wines of any multiple retailers in Ireland, Britain or France.”

Can’t resist putting in a few of my own so here goes:

• Best Value Red of the Year: Longview Bucket Shiraz Cabernet 2009 (Australia)
• Best Value White of the Year: Rabl Grüner Veltliner 2010 (Austria)
• Most Exciting New Wine of the Year: Gaia S 2009 (Greece)
• Best Big, Rich, Powerhouse Red of the Year:  Coyam 2009 (Chile)
• Weird but Wonderful Wine of the Year: Castra Rubra Dominant 2009 (Bulgaria)
• Best New Vintage of an Old Favourite: Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc 2010 (New Zealand)
• Mind-Blowing Wine of the Year: Borie de Maurel Cuvée Sylla 2008 (France)

Make a wine resolution in 2012, here are some suggestions :-

1. If you are hooked on Sauvignon or Pinot Grigio try an Adventure With Albarino – its dry with a refreshing delicate peachy fruit character, unoaked and great alone or with food Nessa Albarino

 
2. If you are maxed out on Cabernet Sauvignon discover the Nuances Of Nero d’Avola – the grape is a native to Sicliy medium bodied with ripe summery fruit character Purato Nero d’Avola

3.Take a few notes on the new wines you love and you will very quickly discover your new best friends for 2012 Borie de Maurel Cuvee Sylla
4. Try something totally different Greece Wine ???  Gaia

5.Try a mad food match Yakka Shiraz with Chocolate pudding – it will change your life
6.Drink at least one bottle of Champagne every month with friends for the sheer pleasure of it  Canard Duchene 

7. Visit an amazing wine region enjoy its people, its scenery, its food and of course its wines 

                                                              Happy New Year 2012

Now is the time to stock up on your favourite bubbles for the festive season – there is a wine here to suit all tastes and budgets…especially with 25% off all sparkling wines and Champagnes until Sunday!

The best sparkling wine is still Champagne, despite the efforts of many fine produces around the world nothing quite compares to the complexity, finesse and the sensory delight of fine Champagne. My two top tips this weekend are not dissimilar in style but are oceans apart in terms of image and price. The first which retails at €29.99 (now €22.99) is Beaumont des Crayères Grande Reserve, this has been a regular favourite with wine critics, journalists and competition judges over the years. Made in a rich, toasty style it belies its lowly pricepoint and puts many of the fashionable big names to shame!

However the big names (or Grand Marques) have some seriously weighty Champagnes to champion their cause and no more so than the House of Bollinger. Bollinger’s Special Cuvée with its broad, honey and brioche style is arguably the finest non-vintage you can buy (with the exception of Krug at €165 a bottle!). With the 25% off this is the perfect time to do an Ab-Fab and stock up on some Bolly! (€41.24 reduced from €54.99).

Champagne-style cork

There are  however plenty of peoplewho prefer fruitier, softer styles of sparkling wines and this is exactly what Ireland’s favourite effervescent tipple Prosecco was designed for. Made to be full of lively peach/pear flavours, frothy and lower in acidity it is the perfect bubbles to drink without food making it ideal for party season. At this time of year you really want a proper “pop” so opt for a bottle with the traditional champagne-style cork on your Prosecco. My personal favourite is Rizzardi’s Extra Dry Prosecco (€11.24 was €14.99), while delicious on its own it’s also a terrific food wine especially with anything slightly sweet and spicey – mince pies mmm.

Lastly if you want some of the style and flavour associated with Champagne but without the wallet weight-loss then opt for traditional or “Champagne – method” sparkling wines. The best of these can be absolutely delicious. There are versions made all over the world but the following three are my top tips, depending on your persona that is.

For the Classicist :  Langlois Crémant de Loire – A  dry style made by this Bollinger owned Loire estate, due to its extended cellaring it has a lovely touch of hazel and nougat on the finish. (€14.24 was €18.99)

For the Sweet tooth : Taltarni Brut Taché – Although technically still dry there is a touch of sweet ripe fruit to this cool climate Australian. Very fine bubbles and good acidity balanced by that very ripe fruit. (€14.24 was €18.99)

For the Wine Buff who likes to stun friends with unusual/exciting finds: Ridgeview Cavendish This comes from one of the coolest (climatically speaking) wine regions in the world –Sussex! The vineyards enjoy  the same chalky bedrock that feeds Champagne vines  and the wine is one of the most floral, elegant, finely balanced sparklers made anywhere. (€20.99 was €27.00)

So pop into your local store or order online and avail of the 25% off all bubbles until 10pm Sunday.

That time of year is upon us again! No, not Christmas but Beaujolais Nouveau Day!

The 3^rd Thursday of November is the official release day for Beaujolais Nouveau – in fact it is illegal to sell a single bottle before today.

What used to be a huge day in the wine calendar worldwide reached its heyday in the late 80’s but after a slow decline it has been rejuvenated in recent years by overall better wine making practices and a string of very good vintages.

The 2011 vintage is no exception, the Gamay grapes grown on Beaujolais’ granitic soils reached perfect maturity giving a juicy vibrancy to the wines that is all too clear to see. After a quick fermentation these wines are bottled early and designed to be drunk young whilst still full of vibrant fruit

George Duboeuf has long been hailed the King of Beaujolais, not only is he the largest producer in the region he has also been the driving force in improving the both the region’s image and the quality of the wines. Duboeuf’s  2011 is an explosion of bright raspberry and cherry fruit, very juicy and lively on the palate with not a single tannin in sight. This is really gluggable stuff and will make a super, easy-drinking bottle over the next few months – particularly good served lightly chilled with slices of cold, baked ham or dare I say it turkey and cranberry sauce sandwiches!

So pop into your local O’Briens and grab yourself a bottle of shiny new Beaujolais Nouveau today!

Great Uncle Bulgaria

Bulgaria; famous for weightlifting, a very recent and very short-lived property bubble and as the name of many people’s favourite Womble….

However go back to the 1980s and early 90s and internationally Bulgaria stood for affordable, easy drinking wines, made from familiar grapes such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

A series of bad financial choices, poor decisions regarding production and the rise of brand Australia brought the old Bulgarian wine industry to its knees.

Castra Rubra Winery

It has taken a while but over the last decade a totally new Bulgaria has arisen. While there are cheap and cheerful wines being made, the real excitement is around a number of top quality producers making wines that are truly world class.

One of these new wave sensations has just landed in Ireland: Castra Rubra.

The CR

Hailing from Thracia, a region with an important vinous history, the winery is state of the art and the vineyards pristine and carefully managed. However there is an instantly recognisable class and international feel to these wines and that is down to the signature of  renowned French consultant; Michel Rolland. These are bold, ambitious, reds of great purity and layer upon layer of dark fruit backed by intelligent oak ageing.

Although the flagship wine (CR) can be compared to great St. Emilion and the Nimbus Pinot Noir has a brightness of fruit that would not be out of place is Central Otago these wines are still very unique. There is a distinct accent to these reds that could only be described as, well …Bulgarian.

Try something truly different this weekend – it’s the closest thing we have to Transylvanian wine!   The Dominant is available to order here and the full range is already available in the following stores: Donnybrook Greystones, Rathmines, Ballybrack, The Beacon, Carrickmines, Galway, Malahide, Sandymount, Newbridge, Blanchardstown, Athlone, Limerick , Naas, Glasnevin and Blackrock.

What do Royal eagles, wild boar, umpteen species of butterflies and a range of award winning wines have in common? The answer is Château Caraguilhes, a rolling “sauvage” six hundred hectare chunk of land in Corbières. Inside this domaine sits 100 hectares of some of the oldest and best organic vineyards in France, pristine natural vines that produce exceptional grapes. The vineyards are surrounded by a thick band of low, herb filled scrub and stunted pines – locally called “garrigue” and in this protective cocoon they have enjoyed 25 years of organic living.  

Walking through the Caraguilhes estate you quickly see that the whole place is teeming with life. Various beetles scurry along the ground, several species of butterfly occupy just a few square feet and crickets vie with birds to fill up every bit of audio space available. You get a real sense that you are in a wilderness and the vineyards are simply a part of this.

Royal Eagle Gorge

So what does all that mean in terms of the wine? Well estate manager and winemaker Etienne will tell you very simply that a natural vineyard with soil that “lives” should give you good vines and healthy grapes – and good wine can only come from good grapes.

The wines themselves speak more of the vineyards than any hi-tech winemaking gimickry, Etienne’s approach is one of extreme care and at all times the desire is to preserve the freshness and character of his pristine grapes. Minute attention to detail, careful handing of the grapes from vineyard to winery, clean and careful vinification and subtle use of oak all help to allow the grapes and hence the vineyards to speak for themselves.

The resulting wines have incredible clarity and purity of fruit and the reds in particular carry that distinct scent of wild herbs, the aroma of the “garrigue” that surrounds the vineyards.

The full range is now back in stock so click here if you want to taste some of France’s finest organically reared wines.

The Range:

 Château Caraguilhes Rosé – Grenache based dry rosé packed with red berry fruit and with good weight balanced by fresh acidity.

 Château Caraguilhes Tradition – A blend of Grenache/Syrah and Carignan that has all the softness and approachability of say a Côtes du Rhône but with that extra herby character – a great drink anywhere/anytime wine.

 Château Caraguilhes Prestige – This is the big reserve red, more Syrah and the best plots go into this big silky wine that despite it’s richness remains elegant and true to its terroir.

 Château Caraguilhes Solus – Made in small quantities each year the estates top wine  is not cheap at €20 a bottle but what you are rewarded with is one of the best wines from the region. This would floor many wines costing twice the price. Enjoy its fantastic concentration and cool clean finesse now or over the next decade.

If ever the idea of Terroir were in doubt a visit to Borie de Maurel in the Minervois will quickly make it clear that Terroir not only exists but it defines some of the most exciting wines on the planet.

The view from the vineyards at Borie de Maurel

This week Michel Escande and son Maxine drove a team from O’Briens up into their rock strewn vineyards, vineyards that seemed to be literally  carved out of the mountain. Up here we tasted Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre grapes from incredibly healthy bunches,  reared by methods that go way beyond organic.

A Pecheron

The Escandes introduced us to the donkeys and mighty Percheron horses that fertilize the land and aid vineyard work. We ate the fresh vegetables grown beside the house seasoned with herbs from the mountain, and followed up with wild boar caught on their land even the olive oil was from a good neighbour.

This is a family that exists close to the land and lives and breathes the air of the mountain, all that is done here follows a philosophy and is in Michel’s words “a way of life”. The results, it has to be said, are some of the Languedoc’s most amazing wines.

The tasting that evening showed just what those vines could do,  from the herby, bramble soaked lushness of Espirit d’Automne to the dense Châteauneuf rival Belle de Nuit the wines were simply stunning.

There is even a honeyed, complex white from Marsanne called La Belle Aude however from the mountain’s uppermost vineyards came the evening’s most amazing wine; the Cuvée Sylla. A wine so intensely aromatic and brilliant in its perfume that your head instinctively jumps back in surprise and then dives in again for another smell!  Elegant and rich at the same time, with everlasting fruit and mineral depths this is one of the purest forms of Syrah on planet earth.

These wines are here in limited quantities so if you want to taste the Terroir of Maurel then jump into any one of these great wines.

For today (25 Aug) and tomorrow (26 Aug) only, new Kiwi producers, ‘INSIGHT’ are in town spreading the word about the new arrivals to the O’Brien’s portfolio:  A beautifully aromatic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, as well as an intriguing barrel aged Pinot Noir – both single vineyard and 100% varietal.

Please pop in to O’Briens Sandymount Road store or Rathmines TONIGHT (between 6.00 – 8.30pm) for a taste of these gorgeous wines….and for a little Kiwi banter…

You’ll learn the wines are from a very discrete location in Marlborough and are the artisan of an extremely talented team.  You’ll also get to learn something quite unique about the INSIGHT bottle – there’s a Quick Response code attached.  

Scan this code with your smart phone and you’ll be taken on an interactive mobile journey – there’s video content about the New Zealand wine regions, there’s bespoke recipes to complement the wines (the lamb dish is divine with the Pinot Noir! and there’s even the chance to win a case of Insight Sauvignon Blanc!    Check it out.  It’s awesome.

 So, please join us for tastings tonight at the Sandymount and Rathmines stores – 6.00 – 8.30pm.

Of course, with the Kiwi’s hosting the Rugby World Cup this year there’s bound to be some Rugby chit chat too….ALL BLACKS, ALL BLACKS…!!  Ha ha!

Cheers.